How To Propagate Hibiscus

 

 

 

 

How To Root Cuttings

Many people say that shrubs, bushes and trees are the backbone of garden design. Many times, these plants provide structure and architecture around which the rest of the garden is created. Unfortunately, shrubs, bushes and trees tend to be the most expensive plants to purchase for your garden.

1.     There is one way to save money though on these higher ticket items.

2.     This is to start your own from cuttings.

3.     There are two types of cuttings to start

4.     shrubs, bushes and trees —

5.     hardwood cuttings and softwood cuttings.

These phrases refer to the state the wood of the plant is in:

·       New growth that is still pliable and has not yet developed a bark exterior is called softwood.

·       Older growth, which has developed a bark exterior, is called hardwood.

How to Root Hardwood Cuttings:

Hardwood cuttings are typically taken in early spring or early winter when the plant is not actively growing. But, in a pinch, hardwood cuttings can be taken anytime of the year.

·       The point of taking hardwood cuttings in non-growth periods is more to do with doing as little harm to the parent plant as possible.

·       Hardwood cuttings are also only taken from shrubs, bushes and trees that lose their leaves every year.

This method will not work with evergreen plants.

·       Cut off a hardwood cutting that is 12 to 48 inches long.

·       Trim the end of the cutting to be planted just below where a leaf bud grows on the branch.

·       Cut off the top of the branch so that there are at least two additional leaf buds above the bottom leaf bud.

·       make sure that the area left is at least 6 inches long.

·       Additional buds can be left on the branch if necessary to make sure the branch is 6 inches.

·       Strip the bottom most leafbuds and the topmost layer of bark 2 inches above this.

·       Do not cut too deeply into the branch.

·       You only need to take off the top layer and you do not need to be thorough about it.

·       Place the stripped area in rooting hormone, then put the stripped end into a small pot of damp soilless mix.

·       Wrap the whole pot and cutting in a plastic bag.

·       Tie off the top but make sure the plastic is not touching the cutting at all.

·       Place the pot in a warm spot that gets indirect light.

·       Do not put in full sunlight. Check the plant every two weeks or so to see if roots have developed.

·       Once roots have developed, remove the plastic covering.

·       The plant will be ready to grow outdoors when the weather is suitable.

How to Root Softwood Cuttings:

·       Softwood cuttings are normally taken when the plant is in active growth, which is normally in the spring.

·       This will be the only time you will be able to find softwood on a shrub, bush or tree.

·       This method can be used with all types of shrubs, bushes and trees.

·       Cut a piece of softwood off the plant that is at least 6″ long, but no longer than 12 inches.

·       Make sure that there is at least three leaves on the cutting.

·       Remove any flowers or fruit on the cutting.

·       Trim the stem to just below where the bottom most leaf meets the stem.

·       On each of the leaves on the stem, cut off half of the leaf.

·       Dip the end of the cutting to be rooted in rooting hormone

·       Put the end to be rooted into a small pot of damp soiless mix.

·       Wrap the whole pot and cutting in a plastic bag.

·       Tie off the top but make sure the plastic is not touching the cutting at all.

·       Place the pot in a warm spot that gets indirect light.

·       Do not put in full sunlight.

·       Check the plant every two weeks or so to see if roots have developed.

·       Once roots have developed, remove the plastic covering.

·       The plant will be ready to grow outdoors when the weather is suitable.

How To Root Cuttings From Various Shrubs, Bushes And Trees General Tree Care By: Heather Rhoades Printer Friendly Version Image by peganum Many people say that shrubs, bushes and trees are the backbone of garden design. Many times, these plants provide structure and architecture around which the rest of the garden is created. Unfortunately, shrubs, bushes and trees tend to be the most expensive plants to purchase for your garden. There is one way to save money though on these higher ticket items. This is to start your own from cuttings. There are two types of cuttings to start shrubs, bushes and trees — hardwood cuttings and softwood cuttings. These phrases refer to the state the wood of the plant is in. New growth that is still pliable and has not yet developed a bark exterior is called softwood. Older growth, which has developed a bark exterior, is called hardwood. How to Root Hardwood Cuttings Hardwood cuttings are typically taken in early spring or early winter when the plant is not actively growing. But, in a pinch, hardwood cuttings can be taken anytime of the year. The point of taking hardwood cuttings in non-growth periods is more to do with doing as little harm to the parent plant as possible. Hardwood cuttings are also only taken from shrubs, bushes and trees that lose their leaves every year. This method will not work with evergreen plants. Cut off a hardwood cutting that is 12 to 48 inches long. Trim the end of the cutting to be planted just below where a leafbud grows on the branch. Cut off the top of the branch so that there are at least two additional leafbuds above the bottom leafbud. Also, make sure that the area left is at least 6 inches long. Additional buds can be left on the branch if necessary to make sure the branch is 6 inches. Strip the bottom most leafbuds and the topmost layer of bark 2 inches above this. Do not cut too deeply into the branch. You only need to take off the top layer and you do not need to be thorough about it. Place the stripped area in rooting hormone, then put the stripped end into a small pot of damp soilless mix. Wrap the whole pot and cutting in a plastic bag. Tie off the top but make sure the plastic is not touching the cutting at all. Place the pot in a warm spot that gets indirect light. Do not put in full sunlight. Check the plant every two weeks or so to see if roots have developed. Once roots have developed, remove the plastic covering. The plant will be ready to grow outdoors when the weather is suitable. How to Root Softwood Cuttings Softwood cuttings are normally taken when the plant is in active growth, which is normally in the spring. This will be the only time you will be able to find softwood on a shrub, bush or tree. This method can be used with all types of shrubs, bushes and trees. Cut a piece of softwood off the plant that is at least 6″ long, but no longer than 12 inches. Make sure that there is at least three leaves on the cutting. Remove any flowers or fruit on the cutting. Trim the stem to just below where the bottom most leaf meets the stem. On each of the leaves on the stem, cut off half of the leaf. Dip the end of the cutting to be rooted in rooting hormone Put the end to be rooted into a small pot of damp soiless mix. Wrap the whole pot and cutting in a plastic bag. Tie off the top but make sure the plastic is not touching the cutting at all. Place the pot in a warm spot that gets indirect light. Do not put in full sunlight. Check the plant every two weeks or so to see if roots have developed. Once roots have developed, remove the plastic covering. The plant will be ready to grow outdoors when the weather is suitable.

Read more at Gardening Know How: How To Root Cuttings From Various Shrubs, Bushes And Trees https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/tgen/how-to-root-cuttings-from-various-shrubs-bushes-and-trees.htm

Growing Hibiscus in Containers Many people who are growing a hibiscus plant choose to do so in a container. This allows them to move the hibiscus plant to ideal locations, depending on the time of year. Provide the plants with at least six hours of sunlight, especially if you want to see those lovely blooms. Although warm, humid conditions are ideal for tropical hibiscus, you may want to provide a little afternoon shade when it’s overly hot. Again, containers make this easy to do.

Read more at Gardening Know How: How To Care For Hibiscus Plants https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/hibiscus/how-to-care-for-hibiscus-plants.htm

How To Care For Hibiscus Plants Hibiscus By: Heather Rhoades Printer Friendly Version Image by miteemaus5 Growing hibiscus is an easy way to add a tropical flair to your garden. When you know how to care for hibiscus plants, you will be rewarded with many years of lovely flowers. Let’s look at some tips on how to care for hibiscus. Growing Hibiscus in Containers Many people who are growing a hibiscus plant choose to do so in a container. This allows them to move the hibiscus plant to ideal locations, depending on the time of year. Provide the plants with at least six hours of sunlight, especially if you want to see those lovely blooms. Although warm, humid conditions are ideal for tropical hibiscus, you may want to provide a little afternoon shade when it’s overly hot. Again, containers make this easy to do. Hibiscus plants prefer a cozy fit when growing in a container. This means that they should be slightly root bound in the pot and when you do decide to repot, give the hibiscus only a little bit more room. Always make sure that your growing hibiscus plant has excellent drainage.

Read more at Gardening Know How: How To Care For Hibiscus Plants https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/hibiscus/how-to-care-for-hibiscus-plants.htm

Hibiscus Propagation: How To Propagate Hibiscus Hibiscus By: Heather Rhoades Printer Friendly Version Image by Zaqqy J. Propagating hibiscus, whether tropical hibiscus or hardy hibiscus, can be done in the home garden and both varieties of hibiscus are propagated in the same way. Hardy hibiscus is easier to propagate than the tropical hibiscus, but never fear; with a little bit of knowledge about how to propagate hibiscus, you can be successful at growing either kind. Hibiscus Propagation from Hibiscus Cuttings Both hardy and tropical hibiscus are propagated from cuttings. Hibiscus cuttings are normally the preferred way of propagating hibiscus because a cutting will grow to be an exact copy of the parent plant. When using hibiscus cuttings to propagate hibiscus, start by taking the cutting. The cutting should be taken from new growth or softwood. Softwood is branches on the hibiscus that have not yet matured. Softwood will be pliable and often has a greenish cast. You will mostly find softwood on a hibiscus in spring or early summer. The hibiscus cutting should be 4 to 6 inches long. Remove everything but the top set of leaves. Trim the bottom of the hibiscus cutting to be cut just below the bottom leaf node (bump where the leaf was growing). Dip the bottom of the hibiscus cutting in rooting hormone. The next step for propagating hibiscus from cuttings is to place the hibiscus cutting in well draining soil. A 50-50 mix of potting soil and perlite works well. Make sure the rooting soil is thoroughly wet, then stick a finger into the rooting soil. Place the hibiscus cutting into the hole and backfill it around the hibiscus cutting. Place a plastic bag over the cutting, making sure that the plastic does not touch the leaves. Place the hibiscus cutting in partial shade. Make sure the rooting soil stays damp (not wet) until the hibiscus cuttings are rooted. The cuttings should be rooted in about eight weeks. Once they are rooted, you can repot them in a bigger pot. Be warned that tropical hibiscus will have a lower rate of success than hardy hibiscus, but if you start several cuttings of the tropical hibiscus, there is a good chance at least one will root successfully. Propagating Hibiscus from Hibiscus Seeds While both tropical hibiscus and hardy hibiscus can be propagated from hibiscus seeds, typically only hardy hibiscus is propagated this way. This is because the seeds will not grow true to the parent plant and will look different from the parent. To grow hibiscus seeds, start by nicking or sanding the seeds. This helps to get moisture into the seeds and improves germination. The hibiscus seeds can be nicked with a utility knife or sanded with a bit of fine grain plain sandpaper. After you have done this, soak the seeds in water overnight. The next step in propagating hibiscus from seeds is to place the seeds in the soil. The seeds should be planted twice a deep as they are big. Since hibiscus seeds tend to be small, you can use the tip of a pen or a toothpick to make the hole. Gently sprinkle or sift more soil over where you planted the hibiscus seeds. This is better than backfilling the holes because you will not inadvertently push the seeds deeper. Water the soil once the seeds are planted. You should see seedlings appear in one to two weeks, but it can take up to four weeks.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Hibiscus Propagation: How To Propagate Hibiscus https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/hibiscus/hibiscus-propagation.htm

Propagating hibiscus, whether tropical hibiscus or hardy hibiscus, can be done in the home garden and both varieties of hibiscus are propagated in the same way. Hardy hibiscus is easier to propagate than the tropical hibiscus, but never fear; with a little bit of knowledge about how to propagate hibiscus, you can be successful at growing either kind. Hibiscus Propagation from Hibiscus Cuttings Both hardy and tropical hibiscus are propagated from cuttings. Hibiscus cuttings are normally the preferred way of propagating hibiscus because a cutting will grow to be an exact copy of the parent plant. When using hibiscus cuttings to propagate hibiscus, start by taking the cutting. The cutting should be taken from new growth or softwood. Softwood is branches on the hibiscus that have not yet matured. Softwood will be pliable and often has a greenish cast. You will mostly find softwood on a hibiscus in spring or early summer. The hibiscus cutting should be 4 to 6 inches long. Remove everything but the top set of leaves. Trim the bottom of the hibiscus cutting to be cut just below the bottom leaf node (bump where the leaf was growing). Dip the bottom of the hibiscus cutting in rooting hormone. The next step for propagating hibiscus from cuttings is to place the hibiscus cutting in well draining soil. A 50-50 mix of potting soil and perlite works well. Make sure the rooting soil is thoroughly wet, then stick a finger into the rooting soil. Place the hibiscus cutting into the hole and backfill it around the hibiscus cutting. Place a plastic bag over the cutting, making sure that the plastic does not touch the leaves. Place the hibiscus cutting in partial shade. Make sure the rooting soil stays damp (not wet) until the hibiscus cuttings are rooted. The cuttings should be rooted in about eight weeks. Once they are rooted, you can repot them in a bigger pot. Be warned that tropical hibiscus will have a lower rate of success than hardy hibiscus, but if you start several cuttings of the tropical hibiscus, there is a good chance at least one will root successfully. Propagating Hibiscus from Hibiscus Seeds While both tropical hibiscus and hardy hibiscus can be propagated from hibiscus seeds, typically only hardy hibiscus is propagated this way. This is because the seeds will not grow true to the parent plant and will look different from the parent. To grow hibiscus seeds, start by nicking or sanding the seeds. This helps to get moisture into the seeds and improves germination. The hibiscus seeds can be nicked with a utility knife or sanded with a bit of fine grain plain sandpaper. After you have done this, soak the seeds in water overnight. The next step in propagating hibiscus from seeds is to place the seeds in the soil. The seeds should be planted twice a deep as they are big. Since hibiscus seeds tend to be small, you can use the tip of a pen or a toothpick to make the hole. Gently sprinkle or sift more soil over where you planted the hibiscus seeds. This is better than backfilling the holes because you will not inadvertently push the seeds deeper. Water the soil once the seeds are planted. You should see seedlings appear in one to two weeks, but it can take up to four weeks.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Hibiscus Propagation: How To Propagate Hibiscus https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/hibiscus/hibiscus-propagation.htm

Propagating hibiscus, whether tropical hibiscus or hardy hibiscus, can be done in the home garden and both varieties of hibiscus are propagated in the same way. Hardy hibiscus is easier to propagate than the tropical hibiscus, but never fear; with a little bit of knowledge about how to propagate hibiscus, you can be successful at growing either kind. Hibiscus Propagation from Hibiscus Cuttings Both hardy and tropical hibiscus are propagated from cuttings. Hibiscus cuttings are normally the preferred way of propagating hibiscus because a cutting will grow to be an exact copy of the parent plant. When using hibiscus cuttings to propagate hibiscus, start by taking the cutting. The cutting should be taken from new growth or softwood. Softwood is branches on the hibiscus that have not yet matured. Softwood will be pliable and often has a greenish cast. You will mostly find softwood on a hibiscus in spring or early summer. The hibiscus cutting should be 4 to 6 inches long. Remove everything but the top set of leaves. Trim the bottom of the hibiscus cutting to be cut just below the bottom leaf node (bump where the leaf was growing). Dip the bottom of the hibiscus cutting in rooting hormone. The next step for propagating hibiscus from cuttings is to place the hibiscus cutting in well draining soil. A 50-50 mix of potting soil and perlite works well. Make sure the rooting soil is thoroughly wet, then stick a finger into the rooting soil. Place the hibiscus cutting into the hole and backfill it around the hibiscus cutting. Place a plastic bag over the cutting, making sure that the plastic does not touch the leaves. Place the hibiscus cutting in partial shade. Make sure the rooting soil stays damp (not wet) until the hibiscus cuttings are rooted. The cuttings should be rooted in about eight weeks. Once they are rooted, you can repot them in a bigger pot. Be warned that tropical hibiscus will have a lower rate of success than hardy hibiscus, but if you start several cuttings of the tropical hibiscus, there is a good chance at least one will root successfully. Propagating Hibiscus from Hibiscus Seeds While both tropical hibiscus and hardy hibiscus can be propagated from hibiscus seeds, typically only hardy hibiscus is propagated this way. This is because the seeds will not grow true to the parent plant and will look different from the parent. To grow hibiscus seeds, start by nicking or sanding the seeds. This helps to get moisture into the seeds and improves germination. The hibiscus seeds can be nicked with a utility knife or sanded with a bit of fine grain plain sandpaper. After you have done this, soak the seeds in water overnight. The next step in propagating hibiscus from seeds is to place the seeds in the soil. The seeds should be planted twice a deep as they are big. Since hibiscus seeds tend to be small, you can use the tip of a pen or a toothpick to make the hole. Gently sprinkle or sift more soil over where you planted the hibiscus seeds. This is better than backfilling the holes because you will not inadvertently push the seeds deeper. Water the soil once the seeds are planted. You should see seedlings appear in one to two weeks, but it can take up to four weeks.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Hibiscus Propagation: How To Propagate Hibiscus https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/hibiscus/hibiscus-propagation.htm

Hummingbird Plant

Growing hummingbird plants is about as easy as it gets. Plant this drought-tolerant, heat-loving plant in full sunlight and well-drained soil, then sit back and watch the show as hummingbirds flock from near and far. It isn't unusual to see several hummers on a single plant.

This Plant’s Flowers Are Shaped Like the Cutest Hummingbirds

 

Hummingbirds are small, but mighty creatures. If you’ve worked your magic on attracting hummingbirds to your yard with a beautiful red feeder and homemade sugar syrup, here’s an added bonus for your outdoor paradise: A plant with hummingbird-shaped flowers.

Called a green birdflower or regal birdflower, this stunning plant belongs to the legume family (hello, chickpeas and alfalfa). Scientifically known as Crotalaria cunninghamii, named after the 19th century botanist Allan Cunningham, the small green shrub is native to Northern Australia. According to the Australian Native Plants Society, aboriginal people often used the plant's sap to treat eye infections.

Looking directly at the entire plant, it’s as if a dozen green hummingbirds gathered together to enjoy a feast of flower nectar—beautifully suspended in mid-air.

And when holding one of these flowers in your hands, it's easy to think it's the real thing.

A green birdflower is most commonly found in sand dunes and in Mulga communities, defined as plants that "capture, retain and cycle precious sediments, nutrients and water." If you can't wait to grow one of your own, know that this unique plant thrives best in hot climates in sandy, well-drained soil with plenty of sunshine.

Although these hummingbird-shaped flowers originate from Australia, plant lovers can easily purchase seeds on Etsy and Amazon. Once the hard seedcoat has blossomed, you'll be able to admire this one-of-a-kind plant all summer long.

Growing Hummingbird Plants: What Does A Hummingbird Plant Look Like Hummingbird Plant By: Mary H. Dyer, Credentialed Garden Writer Printer Friendly Version Image by rjhyden Also known as Uruguayan firecracker plant, or firecracker flower, Dicliptera hummingbird plant (Dicliptera suberecta) is a sturdy, ornamental plant that delights hummingbirds with its bright blooms from late spring until the first frost in autumn. Keep reading to learn more. What Does a Hummingbird Plant Look Like? Hummingbird plants are bushy plants that reach heights of 2 feet, with a spread of about 3 feet. The velvety leaves and stems are an attractive shade of grayish-green. Masses of bright, reddish-orange flowers at stem tips are upright and tube-shaped, making it easy for hummingbirds to reach the sweet nectar. This adaptable perennial is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 7 and above. In cooler climates, grow hummingbird plant as an annual. It is suitable for containers, hanging baskets, flower beds or borders. How to Grow Dicliptera Growing hummingbird plants is about as easy as it gets. Plant this drought-tolerant, heat-loving plant in full sunlight and well-drained soil, then sit back and watch the show as hummingbirds flock from near and far. It isn’t unusual to see several hummers on a single plant. Hummingbird plant is also attractive to other beneficial pollinators, including butterflies and honeybees. Hummingbird Plant Care Hummingbird plant is a hardy, indestructible plant that thrives on neglect. Although the plant likes dry soil, it benefits from occasional water during hot, dry weather. No fertilizer is required. If you’re growing the hummingbird plant as a perennial, cut the plant nearly to the ground after blooming ends in autumn. The plant will lie dormant for the winter, but will burst forth better than ever when temperatures rise in spring. Hummingbird plant is resistant to most pests and diseases, although the plant may rot in soggy, poorly drained soil. Deer tend to leave this plant alone, probably because of the fuzzy foliage.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Growing Hummingbird Plants: What Does A Hummingbird Plant Look Like https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/hummingbird-plant/growing-hummingbird-plants.htm

Growing Hummingbird Plants: What Does A Hummingbird Plant Look Like Hummingbird Plant By: Mary H. Dyer, Credentialed Garden Writer Printer Friendly Version Image by rjhyden Also known as Uruguayan firecracker plant, or firecracker flower, Dicliptera hummingbird plant (Dicliptera suberecta) is a sturdy, ornamental plant that delights hummingbirds with its bright blooms from late spring until the first frost in autumn. Keep reading to learn more. What Does a Hummingbird Plant Look Like? Hummingbird plants are bushy plants that reach heights of 2 feet, with a spread of about 3 feet. The velvety leaves and stems are an attractive shade of grayish-green. Masses of bright, reddish-orange flowers at stem tips are upright and tube-shaped, making it easy for hummingbirds to reach the sweet nectar. This adaptable perennial is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 7 and above. In cooler climates, grow hummingbird plant as an annual. It is suitable for containers, hanging baskets, flower beds or borders. How to Grow Dicliptera Growing hummingbird plants is about as easy as it gets. Plant this drought-tolerant, heat-loving plant in full sunlight and well-drained soil, then sit back and watch the show as hummingbirds flock from near and far. It isn’t unusual to see several hummers on a single plant. Hummingbird plant is also attractive to other beneficial pollinators, including butterflies and honeybees. Hummingbird Plant Care Hummingbird plant is a hardy, indestructible plant that thrives on neglect. Although the plant likes dry soil, it benefits from occasional water during hot, dry weather. No fertilizer is required. If you’re growing the hummingbird plant as a perennial, cut the plant nearly to the ground after blooming ends in autumn. The plant will lie dormant for the winter, but will burst forth better than ever when temperatures rise in spring. Hummingbird plant is resistant to most pests and diseases, although the plant may rot in soggy, poorly drained soil. Deer tend to leave this plant alone, probably because of the fuzzy foliage.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Growing Hummingbird Plants: What Does A Hummingbird Plant Look Like https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/hummingbird-plant/growing-hummingbird-plants.htm

Chickpeas

How to Grow Chickpeas, Garbanzo Beans

Sow chickpeas 1½ to 2 inches deep, spaced 3 to 6 inches apart. Thin successful plants to 6 inches apart; cut away thinned plants at soil level with scissors so as not to disturb roots. Space rows 18 to 24 inches apart. Do not soak seed before sowing and avoid heavy watering after sowing to keep seeds from cracking.





The chickpea or garbanzo bean is a cool-season annual that requires about 100 days to reach harvest. Sow chickpeas in the garden about the date of the average last frost in spring or slightly earlier. Chickpeas require a long growing season; to get a head start on the season, sow chickpeas indoors in a peat or paper pot several weeks before transplanting out. Set the chickpea and biodegradable pot whole in the garden when the plant is 4 to 5 inches tall.

Description. Chickpeas, also called garbanzo beans and gram, are regarded as beans, but botanically are neither beans nor peas. The chickpea is a tender annual legume, a bushy plant that grows to about 18 inches tall and has pairs of dark green, compound leaflets that look like vetch. Chick peas have swollen, oblong pods to about 1 inch long and nearly as wide that contain one or two large, cream-colored, pea-like seeds each. Flowers may be white or violet colored depending on the variety.
Yield. Grow 4 to 8 chickpeas plants per each household member.
Site. Plant chickpeas in full sun. Chickpeas will grow in partial shade but the yield will be reduced. Grow chickpeas in loose, well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Add aged compost to planting beds in advance of planting. Avoid planting chickpeas where green manures have just grown or in soil high in nitrogen; this will result in green leafy growth, not seed production. Add potassium and phosphorus to the soil.

Planting time. The chickpea is a cool-season annual that requires 100 or so days to reach harvest. Chickpeas are frost tolerant but grow best where daytime temperatures range between 70 and 80º and where night time temperatures do not dip below 65ºF. Sow chickpeas in the garden as early as 2 ro 3 weeks before the average last frost in spring. Chickpeas require a long growing season; to get a head start on the season, sow chickpeas indoors in a peat or paper pot and transplant the pot and plant whole to the garden when the plants are 3 to 4 inches tall.

Planting and spacing. Sow chickpeas 1½ to 2 inches deep, spaced 3 to 6 inches apart. Thin successful plants to 6 inches apart; cut away thinned plants at soil level with scissors so as not to disturb roots. Space rows 18 to 24 inches apart. Do not soak seed before sowing and avoid heavy watering after sowing to keep seeds from cracking. Chickpeas allowed to grow a bit crowded will offer each other support.

Water and feeding. Keep planting beds evenly moist until chickpeas have pushed through the soil. Water regularly during flowering and pod formation. Avoid overhead watering which can cause flowers and pods to fall off. Mulch when the weather warms to conserve soil moisture. Add aged compost to planting beds in advance of planting. Side dress chickpeas with aged compost at midseason. Avoid adding nitrogen-rich fertilizers to planting beds. Chickpeas, like other legumes, set up a mutual exchange with soil microorganisms called nitrogen-fixing bacteria to produce nitrogen compounds used by the plant.

Companion plants. Potatoes, cucumbers, corn, strawberries, celery, summer savory. Do not plant chickpeas with garlic.

Care. Avoid handling chickpeas when they are wet or covered with heavy dew; this may spread fungus spores. Keep planting beds weed free but cultivate around chickpeas carefully so as not to disturb the plant’s shallow root system. Rotate chickpeas and other legumes to add nitrogen to the soil.

Container growing. Chickpeas can be grown in containers 8 inches deep, the space required for a useable crop makes chickpeas a poor choice for container growing.

Pests. Chickpeas can be attacked by aphids, bean beetles, flea beetles, leafhoppers and mites. Aphids, leafhoppers, and mites can be sprayed away with a blast of water from the hose or controlled with insecticidal soap. Look for eggs and infestations and crush them between your fingers and thumb. Pinch out and remove large infestations. Aphids can spread bean mosaic virus. Keep the garden clean and free of debris so that pests can not harbor or over-winter in the garden.

Diseases. Chickpeas are susceptible to blight, mosaic, and anthracnose. Plant disease-resistant varieties. Keep the garden clean and free of debris. Avoid handling plants when they are wet so as not to spread fungal spores. Removed diseased plants; put them in a paper bag and throw them away. Chickpeas are susceptible to many soil-borne diseases; rotating beans so that they do not grow in the same location more than every three years will reduce soil-borne diseases.

Harvest. Chickpeas will be ready for harvest about 100 days after planting. Chickpeas for fresh eating can be picked when pods are still immature and green; they can be eaten like snap beans. For dried chickpeas, harvest the entire plant when the leaves have withered and turned brown; place the plant on a flat, warm surface and allow the pods to dry. Collect the seed as the pods split. Seeds that will barely dent when bitten are sufficiently dry.

Varieties. Chickpea; Garbanzo; Gram; Kabuli Black.

Storing and preserving. Unshelled chickpeas will keep in the refrigerator for up to one week. Dried, shelled chickpeas will keep in a cool, dry place for up to a year. Chickpeas can be frozen, canned, or sprouted.

As a rich source of vitamins, minerals and fiber, chickpeas may offer a variety of health benefits, such as improving digestion, aiding weight management and reducing the risk of several diseases. Additionally, chickpeas are high in protein and make an excellent replacement for meat in vegetarian and vegan diets

Money tree

About This Plant

If you saw a money tree, or Pachira aquatica, in its native habitat of Central and South American swamps, you probably wouldn’t recognize it. The tree can grow up to 60 feet tall (versus a max of 3 to 6 feet indoors), and that ubiquitous braided trunk isn’t a natural feature. When grown in a nursery, the supple young, green trunks are slowly braided by cultivators before they harden and turn woody.

Where to Grow

Money trees prefer bright, indirect light and moderate-to-high humidity. Direct sunlight can lead to leaf-scorching, but the plants can do relatively well in low light. Exposure to too many drafts, though, may cause leaf loss. Heater vents and hot, dry air also need to be avoided.

If you can’t keep your money tree in a bright, steamy bathroom, make it a humidity-enhancing pebble tray by filling a shallow tray with small rocks, adding water to partially cover the rocks, and setting the plant on top.

Money trees can survive outdoors in USDA zones 10 through 12, but otherwise need to be houseplants.

How to Care for a Money Tree

To avoid root rot, a money tree needs a sandy, peat-moss-based soil and a pot with good drainage. Although it likes humidity in general, you should let its soil dry out between watering. A good schedule for most environments is to water when the top 2-4 inches of soil are dry. Water thoroughly, until water flows out the drainage holes of the pot, and pour out the excess from the tray so that the roots don’t sit in water.

During the growing season, fertilize once a month with a liquid plant food at half strength, but skip fertilizer in the winter.

How to Propagate

With clean pruning shears, cut off the tip of a stem with at least two leaf nodes. Dip the cut end in hormone rooting powder, and place in a standard potting mix. Keep the soil moist with regular misting until the cutting roots, in approximately 4 weeks.

Common Problems

Overwatering and too much sunlight are the most common causes of problems with money plants, though they can also suffer from scale insects, mealybugs, and aphids. Bugs can be treated with a systemic insect control, or horticultural oil spray.

Money Tree Bonsai

This tree often comes as a group of five trees braided or twisted together. To maintain the shape, or to guide the trunks into a braid yourself, wrap some sturdy string around the tops of the trunks to bind them together tightly as they grow. Read up on other training techniques to keep them small and in the shape you want.