Tuesday, November 26, 2019

Growing Corn

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Sweet Corn

 

Sweet corn is an annual crop with yellow, white, or bi-colored ears. A long, frost-free growing season is necessary. Here’s how to plant, grow, and harvest corn in your garden.
Sweet corn is wind-pollinated, so it should be planted in blocks, rather than in single rows. Early, mid, and late-season varieties extend the harvest, but be mindful: if you miss the optimal harvest time, the corn’s flavor will go downhill fast, as sugars convert to starch.



Planting

When to Plant Corn

  • Plant seeds outdoors approximately two weeks after the last spring frost date. Consult our Planting Calendar (above) to see suggested planting dates for your region.
  • It’s important to get corn planted as soon as possible, since it requires a fairly long growing period with warm weather. If you live in an area with a shorter growing season, choose an early variety that will mature well before the first fall frost.
  • Make sure the soil temperature is above 60°F (16°C) for successful germination. (Up to 65°F/18°C for super sweet varieties.) In colder zones, the ground can be warmed by a black plastic cover, if necessary. Plant seeds through holes in the plastic.
  • A couple weeks after planting your first round of corn, plant another crop to extend the harvest.

Choosing and Preparing a Planting Site

  • Corn plants are picky about their soil. Work in aged manure or compost the fall before planting and let it overwinter in the soil.
  • The soil should be well-draining, but must be able to hold some moisture. Corn tends to use a lot of water.
  • For sufficient pollination, plan your plot right. Instead of planting two long rows of corn, plant “blocks” of corn at least four rows deep. This ensures that the corn—which is pollinated by wind—has a greater chance of producing viable ears.

How to Plant Corn

  • Starting corn seeds indoors is not recommended. It’s best to start them directly in the garden so that their roots aren’t disturbed due to transplanting.
  • Plant seeds 1.5 to 2 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart.
  • Rows should be spaced 30 to 36 inches apart.
  • You may choose to fertilize at planting time; corn is meant to grow rapidly. If you are confident that the soil is adequate, this can be skipped.
  • Water well at planting time.


Care

How to Grow Corn

  • When your plants are 3 to 4 inches tall, thin them so they are 8 to 12 inches apart.
  • Be careful not to damage the roots when weeding.
  • In dry conditions, be sure to keep corn well watered due to its shallow roots. Water at a rate of 5 gallons per sq. yard.
  • Mulch helps reduce evaporation.

Pests/Diseases

Corn plants are susceptible to several common garden pests:

Harvest/Storage

How to Harvest Corn

  • Harvest when tassels begin to turn brown and cobs start to swell. Kernels should be full and milky.
  • Pull ears downward and twist to take off stalk.
  • Sweet corn varieties begin to lose their sweetness soon after harvesting, so use them as soon as possible.
  • Prepare for eating or preserving immediately after picking.

How to Store Corn


Recommended Varieties

There are three types of sweet corn: Normal, sugar-enhanced, and supersweet. Each one contains a different level of sucrose, changing the flavor and texture of the corn. Sweeter varieties will stay sweeter for longer after harvest.
  • ‘Iochief’: midseason, normal-sugar variety. Yellow.
  • ‘Silver Queen’: normal sugar-variety. Resistant to some bacterial diseases. White.
  • ‘Sweet Sunshine’: supersweet variety, disease resistant, high yield. Yellow.
  • ‘Argent’: sugar-enhanced variety, good taste. White.
Corn can be a feast for the eyes, too! Look for these ornamental varieties:
  • ‘Glass Gem’: Sporting multi-colored, semi-transparent kernels, this is a favorite for kids.
  • ‘Painted Mountain’: Looking for the classic “maize” colors? This variety has a great diversity of natural tones.

Wit & Wisdom

  • Baby corn is produced from regular corn plants that are harvested early, while the ears are immature. Regular sweet corn, sugar-enhanced sweet corn, and supersweet corn varieties can be used, along with a few varieties that are specific for baby corn.
  • If your corn shucks harder than usual, prepare for a cold winter.
  • Corn is one of the Three Sisters; its growing style pairs perfectly with beans and squash. Learn more about companion planting.
  • Corn is great for eating but also has so many other uses including medicinal. Learn more about corn for natural health.
  • Learn more fun, witty facts about corn.

Recipes

Cooking Notes

  • If too much hot pepper or spice has been added to a soup or stew, adding a can of sweet corn can help.
  • Popcorn is also a favorite snack if you have leftover kernels. Learn how to make homemade popcorn here.

 Old Farmer's Almanac

Thursday, November 14, 2019

kumquat

Probably the least exotic item on this list (which is why we're finishing out with this one), the Kumquat is a small, edible fruit that closely resembles an orange and is native to south Asia and the Asia-Pacific. Unlike other citrus fruits, its raw rind is sweet, with the flesh acidic and sour like the lemon.



Kumquat Tree Care: Tips For Growing Kumquat Trees Kumquat Trees :

(Citrus japonica), sometimes spelled cumquat or comquot, is a small citrus fruit that grows in climates too cool for other citrus plants. 

The fruit is sweet and tart at the same time and is eaten without removing the peel. If you are interested in trying your hand at growing kumquat trees, you should gather as much kumquat tree info as possible to avoid any kumquat tree problems later down the road.

  
They reach heights of 8 to 15 feet and have a vase-like or rounded canopy. In spring you’ll be treated to showy, fragrant white flowers. The trees are self-fertile, so you’ll only need one to produce fruit.

Growing kumquat trees is easy.

They need full sun and tolerate any soil pH and most soil types as long as the soil is well-drained.
They also tolerate seaside conditions.
Kumquat trees are suitable to USDA plant hardiness zones 9 and 10, and withstand winter temperatures as low as 18 F. (-8 C.)

Kumquat Tree Care As part of your kumquat tree care, you should keep the soil moist around young trees, but not wet or soggy.

Once the tree is established, water during dry spells. Withhold fertilizer for the first two or three months. Use a fertilizer designed for citrus trees , following the label instructions.

Use a layer of mulch over the root zone to help the soil hold moisture and inhibit weeds that compete with the tree for moisture and nutrients.

Pull the mulch back several inches from the trunk of the tree.

Kumquat trees don’t require pruning except to remove suckers that drain the tree’s resources. If you want to prune to shape the tree, do so after you harvest the fruit but before the flowers bloom in spring.

How to Care for Kumquat Trees in Containers Kumquat trees don’t tolerate being root bound, so you will need a very large pot.

Drill extra large drainage holes in the bottom of the pot, and cover the holes with window screen to keep the soil from falling through.

Raise the pot off the ground to improve the drainage and air circulation. Kumquat trees in containers need extra protection during freezing weather because of the exposed roots.

Cover them with a blanket when frost threatens.

Kumquat Tree Problems Kumquat trees are susceptible to root rot diseases.


  • Avoid excess moisture and make sure the soil is well-drained before planting.
  • Avoid piling mulch around the base of the tree.
  • Aphids and scale insects sometimes attack the tree.
  • Natural predators usually keep these insects from becoming a serious problem.


You can use insecticidal soaps as a contact insecticide and horticultural oils early in the season.






Kumquat Tree Care: Tips For Growing Kumquat Trees Kumquat Trees By: Jackie Carroll Printer Friendly Version Image by Karimala Kumquat (Fortunella japonica syn. Citrus japonica), sometimes spelled cumquat or comquot, is a small citrus fruit that grows in climates too cool for other citrus plants. The fruit is sweet and tart at the same time and is eaten without removing the peel. If you are interested in trying your hand at growing kumquat trees, you should gather as much kumquat tree info as possible to avoid any kumquat tree problems later down the road. Kumquat Tree Info Kumquats grow on evergreen trees and are native to China. They reach heights of 8 to 15 feet and have a vase-like or rounded canopy. In spring you’ll be treated to showy, fragrant white flowers. The trees are self-fertile, so you’ll only need one to produce fruit. Growing kumquat trees is easy. They need full sun and tolerate any soil pH and most soil types as long as the soil is well-drained. They also tolerate seaside conditions. Kumquat trees are suitable to USDA plant hardiness zones 9 and 10, and withstand winter temperatures as low as 18 F. (-8 C.) Kumquat Tree Care As part of your kumquat tree care, you should keep the soil moist around young trees, but not wet or soggy. Once the tree is established, water during dry spells. Withhold fertilizer for the first two or three months. Use a fertilizer designed for citrus trees thereafter, following the label instructions. Use a layer of mulch over the root zone to help the soil hold moisture and inhibit weeds that compete with the tree for moisture and nutrients. Pull the mulch back several inches from the trunk of the tree. Kumquat trees don’t require pruning except to remove suckers that drain the tree’s resources. If you want to prune to shape the tree, do so after you harvest the fruit but before the flowers bloom in spring. How to Care for Kumquat Trees in Containers Kumquat trees don’t tolerate being root bound, so you will need a very large pot. Drill extra large drainage holes in the bottom of the pot, and cover the holes with window screen to keep the soil from falling through. Raise the pot off the ground to improve the drainage and air circulation. Kumquat trees in containers need extra protection during freezing weather because of the exposed roots. Cover them with a blanket when frost threatens. Kumquat Tree Problems Kumquat trees are susceptible to root rot diseases. Avoid excess moisture and make sure the soil is well-drained before planting. Avoid piling mulch around the base of the tree. Aphids and scale insects sometimes attack the tree. Natural predators usually keep these insects from becoming a serious problem. You can use insecticidal soaps as a contact insecticide and horticultural oils early in the season. Follow the insecticide labels exactly, and store unused portions in their original container and out of the reach of children.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Kumquat Tree Care: Tips For Growing Kumquat Trees https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/kumquat/growing-kumquat-trees.htm

Wednesday, November 13, 2019

How To Propagate Hibiscus

 
 



 
 
How To Root Cuttings

Many people say that shrubs, bushes and trees are the backbone of garden design. Many times, these plants provide structure and architecture around which the rest of the garden is created. Unfortunately, shrubs, bushes and trees tend to be the most expensive plants to purchase for your garden.

1.     There is one way to save money though on these higher ticket items.
2.     This is to start your own from cuttings.
3.     There are two types of cuttings to start
4.     shrubs, bushes and trees —
5.     hardwood cuttings and softwood cuttings.

These phrases refer to the state the wood of the plant is in:

·       New growth that is still pliable and has not yet developed a bark exterior is called softwood.

·       Older growth, which has developed a bark exterior, is called hardwood.

How to Root Hardwood Cuttings:
Hardwood cuttings are typically taken in early spring or early winter when the plant is not actively growing. But, in a pinch, hardwood cuttings can be taken anytime of the year.

·       The point of taking hardwood cuttings in non-growth periods is more to do with doing as little harm to the parent plant as possible.

·       Hardwood cuttings are also only taken from shrubs, bushes and trees that lose their leaves every year.

This method will not work with evergreen plants.

·       Cut off a hardwood cutting that is 12 to 48 inches long.
·       Trim the end of the cutting to be planted just below where a leaf bud grows on the branch.
·       Cut off the top of the branch so that there are at least two additional leaf buds above the bottom leaf bud.
·       make sure that the area left is at least 6 inches long.
·       Additional buds can be left on the branch if necessary to make sure the branch is 6 inches.
·       Strip the bottom most leafbuds and the topmost layer of bark 2 inches above this.
·       Do not cut too deeply into the branch.
·       You only need to take off the top layer and you do not need to be thorough about it.

·       Place the stripped area in rooting hormone, then put the stripped end into a small pot of damp soilless mix.

·       Wrap the whole pot and cutting in a plastic bag.
·       Tie off the top but make sure the plastic is not touching the cutting at all.
·       Place the pot in a warm spot that gets indirect light.
·       Do not put in full sunlight. Check the plant every two weeks or so to see if roots have developed.
·       Once roots have developed, remove the plastic covering.

·       The plant will be ready to grow outdoors when the weather is suitable.

How to Root Softwood Cuttings:

·       Softwood cuttings are normally taken when the plant is in active growth, which is normally in the spring.

·       This will be the only time you will be able to find softwood on a shrub, bush or tree.

·       This method can be used with all types of shrubs, bushes and trees.

·       Cut a piece of softwood off the plant that is at least 6″ long, but no longer than 12 inches.
·       Make sure that there is at least three leaves on the cutting.
·       Remove any flowers or fruit on the cutting.
·       Trim the stem to just below where the bottom most leaf meets the stem.

·       On each of the leaves on the stem, cut off half of the leaf.
·       Dip the end of the cutting to be rooted in rooting hormone
·       Put the end to be rooted into a small pot of damp soiless mix.

·       Wrap the whole pot and cutting in a plastic bag.
·       Tie off the top but make sure the plastic is not touching the cutting at all.
·       Place the pot in a warm spot that gets indirect light.
·       Do not put in full sunlight.
·       Check the plant every two weeks or so to see if roots have developed.
·       Once roots have developed, remove the plastic covering.
·       The plant will be ready to grow outdoors when the weather is suitable.



How To Root Cuttings From Various Shrubs, Bushes And Trees General Tree Care By: Heather Rhoades Printer Friendly Version Image by peganum Many people say that shrubs, bushes and trees are the backbone of garden design. Many times, these plants provide structure and architecture around which the rest of the garden is created. Unfortunately, shrubs, bushes and trees tend to be the most expensive plants to purchase for your garden. There is one way to save money though on these higher ticket items. This is to start your own from cuttings. There are two types of cuttings to start shrubs, bushes and trees — hardwood cuttings and softwood cuttings. These phrases refer to the state the wood of the plant is in. New growth that is still pliable and has not yet developed a bark exterior is called softwood. Older growth, which has developed a bark exterior, is called hardwood. How to Root Hardwood Cuttings Hardwood cuttings are typically taken in early spring or early winter when the plant is not actively growing. But, in a pinch, hardwood cuttings can be taken anytime of the year. The point of taking hardwood cuttings in non-growth periods is more to do with doing as little harm to the parent plant as possible. Hardwood cuttings are also only taken from shrubs, bushes and trees that lose their leaves every year. This method will not work with evergreen plants. Cut off a hardwood cutting that is 12 to 48 inches long. Trim the end of the cutting to be planted just below where a leafbud grows on the branch. Cut off the top of the branch so that there are at least two additional leafbuds above the bottom leafbud. Also, make sure that the area left is at least 6 inches long. Additional buds can be left on the branch if necessary to make sure the branch is 6 inches. Strip the bottom most leafbuds and the topmost layer of bark 2 inches above this. Do not cut too deeply into the branch. You only need to take off the top layer and you do not need to be thorough about it. Place the stripped area in rooting hormone, then put the stripped end into a small pot of damp soilless mix. Wrap the whole pot and cutting in a plastic bag. Tie off the top but make sure the plastic is not touching the cutting at all. Place the pot in a warm spot that gets indirect light. Do not put in full sunlight. Check the plant every two weeks or so to see if roots have developed. Once roots have developed, remove the plastic covering. The plant will be ready to grow outdoors when the weather is suitable. How to Root Softwood Cuttings Softwood cuttings are normally taken when the plant is in active growth, which is normally in the spring. This will be the only time you will be able to find softwood on a shrub, bush or tree. This method can be used with all types of shrubs, bushes and trees. Cut a piece of softwood off the plant that is at least 6″ long, but no longer than 12 inches. Make sure that there is at least three leaves on the cutting. Remove any flowers or fruit on the cutting. Trim the stem to just below where the bottom most leaf meets the stem. On each of the leaves on the stem, cut off half of the leaf. Dip the end of the cutting to be rooted in rooting hormone Put the end to be rooted into a small pot of damp soiless mix. Wrap the whole pot and cutting in a plastic bag. Tie off the top but make sure the plastic is not touching the cutting at all. Place the pot in a warm spot that gets indirect light. Do not put in full sunlight. Check the plant every two weeks or so to see if roots have developed. Once roots have developed, remove the plastic covering. The plant will be ready to grow outdoors when the weather is suitable.

Read more at Gardening Know How: How To Root Cuttings From Various Shrubs, Bushes And Trees https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/trees/tgen/how-to-root-cuttings-from-various-shrubs-bushes-and-trees.htm
Growing Hibiscus in Containers Many people who are growing a hibiscus plant choose to do so in a container. This allows them to move the hibiscus plant to ideal locations, depending on the time of year. Provide the plants with at least six hours of sunlight, especially if you want to see those lovely blooms. Although warm, humid conditions are ideal for tropical hibiscus, you may want to provide a little afternoon shade when it’s overly hot. Again, containers make this easy to do.

Read more at Gardening Know How: How To Care For Hibiscus Plants https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/hibiscus/how-to-care-for-hibiscus-plants.htm
How To Care For Hibiscus Plants Hibiscus By: Heather Rhoades Printer Friendly Version Image by miteemaus5 Growing hibiscus is an easy way to add a tropical flair to your garden. When you know how to care for hibiscus plants, you will be rewarded with many years of lovely flowers. Let’s look at some tips on how to care for hibiscus. Growing Hibiscus in Containers Many people who are growing a hibiscus plant choose to do so in a container. This allows them to move the hibiscus plant to ideal locations, depending on the time of year. Provide the plants with at least six hours of sunlight, especially if you want to see those lovely blooms. Although warm, humid conditions are ideal for tropical hibiscus, you may want to provide a little afternoon shade when it’s overly hot. Again, containers make this easy to do. Hibiscus plants prefer a cozy fit when growing in a container. This means that they should be slightly root bound in the pot and when you do decide to repot, give the hibiscus only a little bit more room. Always make sure that your growing hibiscus plant has excellent drainage.

Read more at Gardening Know How: How To Care For Hibiscus Plants https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/hibiscus/how-to-care-for-hibiscus-plants.htm
Hibiscus Propagation: How To Propagate Hibiscus Hibiscus By: Heather Rhoades Printer Friendly Version Image by Zaqqy J. Propagating hibiscus, whether tropical hibiscus or hardy hibiscus, can be done in the home garden and both varieties of hibiscus are propagated in the same way. Hardy hibiscus is easier to propagate than the tropical hibiscus, but never fear; with a little bit of knowledge about how to propagate hibiscus, you can be successful at growing either kind. Hibiscus Propagation from Hibiscus Cuttings Both hardy and tropical hibiscus are propagated from cuttings. Hibiscus cuttings are normally the preferred way of propagating hibiscus because a cutting will grow to be an exact copy of the parent plant. When using hibiscus cuttings to propagate hibiscus, start by taking the cutting. The cutting should be taken from new growth or softwood. Softwood is branches on the hibiscus that have not yet matured. Softwood will be pliable and often has a greenish cast. You will mostly find softwood on a hibiscus in spring or early summer. The hibiscus cutting should be 4 to 6 inches long. Remove everything but the top set of leaves. Trim the bottom of the hibiscus cutting to be cut just below the bottom leaf node (bump where the leaf was growing). Dip the bottom of the hibiscus cutting in rooting hormone. The next step for propagating hibiscus from cuttings is to place the hibiscus cutting in well draining soil. A 50-50 mix of potting soil and perlite works well. Make sure the rooting soil is thoroughly wet, then stick a finger into the rooting soil. Place the hibiscus cutting into the hole and backfill it around the hibiscus cutting. Place a plastic bag over the cutting, making sure that the plastic does not touch the leaves. Place the hibiscus cutting in partial shade. Make sure the rooting soil stays damp (not wet) until the hibiscus cuttings are rooted. The cuttings should be rooted in about eight weeks. Once they are rooted, you can repot them in a bigger pot. Be warned that tropical hibiscus will have a lower rate of success than hardy hibiscus, but if you start several cuttings of the tropical hibiscus, there is a good chance at least one will root successfully. Propagating Hibiscus from Hibiscus Seeds While both tropical hibiscus and hardy hibiscus can be propagated from hibiscus seeds, typically only hardy hibiscus is propagated this way. This is because the seeds will not grow true to the parent plant and will look different from the parent. To grow hibiscus seeds, start by nicking or sanding the seeds. This helps to get moisture into the seeds and improves germination. The hibiscus seeds can be nicked with a utility knife or sanded with a bit of fine grain plain sandpaper. After you have done this, soak the seeds in water overnight. The next step in propagating hibiscus from seeds is to place the seeds in the soil. The seeds should be planted twice a deep as they are big. Since hibiscus seeds tend to be small, you can use the tip of a pen or a toothpick to make the hole. Gently sprinkle or sift more soil over where you planted the hibiscus seeds. This is better than backfilling the holes because you will not inadvertently push the seeds deeper. Water the soil once the seeds are planted. You should see seedlings appear in one to two weeks, but it can take up to four weeks.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Hibiscus Propagation: How To Propagate Hibiscus https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/hibiscus/hibiscus-propagation.htm
Propagating hibiscus, whether tropical hibiscus or hardy hibiscus, can be done in the home garden and both varieties of hibiscus are propagated in the same way. Hardy hibiscus is easier to propagate than the tropical hibiscus, but never fear; with a little bit of knowledge about how to propagate hibiscus, you can be successful at growing either kind. Hibiscus Propagation from Hibiscus Cuttings Both hardy and tropical hibiscus are propagated from cuttings. Hibiscus cuttings are normally the preferred way of propagating hibiscus because a cutting will grow to be an exact copy of the parent plant. When using hibiscus cuttings to propagate hibiscus, start by taking the cutting. The cutting should be taken from new growth or softwood. Softwood is branches on the hibiscus that have not yet matured. Softwood will be pliable and often has a greenish cast. You will mostly find softwood on a hibiscus in spring or early summer. The hibiscus cutting should be 4 to 6 inches long. Remove everything but the top set of leaves. Trim the bottom of the hibiscus cutting to be cut just below the bottom leaf node (bump where the leaf was growing). Dip the bottom of the hibiscus cutting in rooting hormone. The next step for propagating hibiscus from cuttings is to place the hibiscus cutting in well draining soil. A 50-50 mix of potting soil and perlite works well. Make sure the rooting soil is thoroughly wet, then stick a finger into the rooting soil. Place the hibiscus cutting into the hole and backfill it around the hibiscus cutting. Place a plastic bag over the cutting, making sure that the plastic does not touch the leaves. Place the hibiscus cutting in partial shade. Make sure the rooting soil stays damp (not wet) until the hibiscus cuttings are rooted. The cuttings should be rooted in about eight weeks. Once they are rooted, you can repot them in a bigger pot. Be warned that tropical hibiscus will have a lower rate of success than hardy hibiscus, but if you start several cuttings of the tropical hibiscus, there is a good chance at least one will root successfully. Propagating Hibiscus from Hibiscus Seeds While both tropical hibiscus and hardy hibiscus can be propagated from hibiscus seeds, typically only hardy hibiscus is propagated this way. This is because the seeds will not grow true to the parent plant and will look different from the parent. To grow hibiscus seeds, start by nicking or sanding the seeds. This helps to get moisture into the seeds and improves germination. The hibiscus seeds can be nicked with a utility knife or sanded with a bit of fine grain plain sandpaper. After you have done this, soak the seeds in water overnight. The next step in propagating hibiscus from seeds is to place the seeds in the soil. The seeds should be planted twice a deep as they are big. Since hibiscus seeds tend to be small, you can use the tip of a pen or a toothpick to make the hole. Gently sprinkle or sift more soil over where you planted the hibiscus seeds. This is better than backfilling the holes because you will not inadvertently push the seeds deeper. Water the soil once the seeds are planted. You should see seedlings appear in one to two weeks, but it can take up to four weeks.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Hibiscus Propagation: How To Propagate Hibiscus https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/hibiscus/hibiscus-propagation.htm
Propagating hibiscus, whether tropical hibiscus or hardy hibiscus, can be done in the home garden and both varieties of hibiscus are propagated in the same way. Hardy hibiscus is easier to propagate than the tropical hibiscus, but never fear; with a little bit of knowledge about how to propagate hibiscus, you can be successful at growing either kind. Hibiscus Propagation from Hibiscus Cuttings Both hardy and tropical hibiscus are propagated from cuttings. Hibiscus cuttings are normally the preferred way of propagating hibiscus because a cutting will grow to be an exact copy of the parent plant. When using hibiscus cuttings to propagate hibiscus, start by taking the cutting. The cutting should be taken from new growth or softwood. Softwood is branches on the hibiscus that have not yet matured. Softwood will be pliable and often has a greenish cast. You will mostly find softwood on a hibiscus in spring or early summer. The hibiscus cutting should be 4 to 6 inches long. Remove everything but the top set of leaves. Trim the bottom of the hibiscus cutting to be cut just below the bottom leaf node (bump where the leaf was growing). Dip the bottom of the hibiscus cutting in rooting hormone. The next step for propagating hibiscus from cuttings is to place the hibiscus cutting in well draining soil. A 50-50 mix of potting soil and perlite works well. Make sure the rooting soil is thoroughly wet, then stick a finger into the rooting soil. Place the hibiscus cutting into the hole and backfill it around the hibiscus cutting. Place a plastic bag over the cutting, making sure that the plastic does not touch the leaves. Place the hibiscus cutting in partial shade. Make sure the rooting soil stays damp (not wet) until the hibiscus cuttings are rooted. The cuttings should be rooted in about eight weeks. Once they are rooted, you can repot them in a bigger pot. Be warned that tropical hibiscus will have a lower rate of success than hardy hibiscus, but if you start several cuttings of the tropical hibiscus, there is a good chance at least one will root successfully. Propagating Hibiscus from Hibiscus Seeds While both tropical hibiscus and hardy hibiscus can be propagated from hibiscus seeds, typically only hardy hibiscus is propagated this way. This is because the seeds will not grow true to the parent plant and will look different from the parent. To grow hibiscus seeds, start by nicking or sanding the seeds. This helps to get moisture into the seeds and improves germination. The hibiscus seeds can be nicked with a utility knife or sanded with a bit of fine grain plain sandpaper. After you have done this, soak the seeds in water overnight. The next step in propagating hibiscus from seeds is to place the seeds in the soil. The seeds should be planted twice a deep as they are big. Since hibiscus seeds tend to be small, you can use the tip of a pen or a toothpick to make the hole. Gently sprinkle or sift more soil over where you planted the hibiscus seeds. This is better than backfilling the holes because you will not inadvertently push the seeds deeper. Water the soil once the seeds are planted. You should see seedlings appear in one to two weeks, but it can take up to four weeks.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Hibiscus Propagation: How To Propagate Hibiscus https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/hibiscus/hibiscus-propagation.htm